Alps - 2026
September 7 & 8
To Geneva
Me and Oliver got to the airport a bit early, concerned that because it was a holiday weekend the lines would be massive. They weren't. Eventually we boarded the plan for the long-ass flight to Paris. Once there we waited for the connecting flight to Geneva.
After maybe 16 hours of travel we made it to the hotel. We cleaned up and met up with Lars where we tried to find something to eat.
We decided to try out a brewery named 3 Brasseurs Étrembières. It was, um, ok. The food was pretty meh. Lars was eager to get the bill and leave.
We walked along the Arve river where Lars found a McDonalds. He ordered his Royal with cheese and ate it as we walked back towards the hotel.
September 9
To Andermatt
After breakfast at the hotel we made our way to Moto Plaisir to pickup the bikes. The pickup was just a quick 5 minute walk from the hotel so it wasn't a huge deal to tow our luggage along with us (plus they were going to hold onto our luggage so we didn't have to find a locker or anything like that).
It was REAL wet making our way towards Andermatt
Along the way we stopped in Zweisimmen for a coffee and pastry. Lars picked up a sandwich for later. Eventually it became known as the 'Gutter Sandwich' because it fell out of his top case and into the running water below the bike. It didn't seem to phase him. He said it was still wrapped. I guess I believe him.
We got to the top of Furka Pass. The rain and cloud cover obscured the view a bit - but still AMAZING.
Eventually we made it to the hotel 'La Furca' in Canton of the Grisons. One thing that was interesting about this hotel is that the bathroom and shower are apparently closet systems bought at Ikea. We found a restaurant called Ustria Casa Cruna where we had pizza and beer. It was pretty damn good.
September 10
Furka, Grimsel, Susten
We got up the next morning and had a breakfast of coffee, croissant, cured meats and cheese. We set out to ride but we barely made it to Andermatt before we decided to stop for another coffee. The waitress suggested we have the apple strudel. Yeah, it was one of the best things we had out there.
We hit the twisty roads up Furka Pass
And made our way towards Innertkirchen where we stopped for lunch at the Hotel & Restaurant Alpenrose
We made it back to the hotel and set out for dinner. We found a place called Stiva Grischuna that served cheese fondue. Not one to pass up a bowl of hot cheese, of course we ate there - me and Lars sharing the fondue, Oliver had something called Capuns.
September 11
Klausen, Pragel, the eggs
Me and Lars got up and headed down the road for a cappuccino and croissant at the train station restaurant. After breakfast we set out for the next part of the ride, heading over Oberalp pass, through Andermatt, taking a quick twisty in-and-out route near Amsteg. Those road signs are all over the place, cautioning motorcyclists - this one translates to 'He who dares, loses'
We took a quick stop in Altdorf just to look around.
We headed up to Ibergeregg pass, stopping to have lunch. Oliver & Lars had Brats. I'm pretty sure putting mustard on bratwurst is not very common because, when asked for mustard, the lady brought out a couple old, shriveled metal tubes of it.
September 12
To Albertville
We packed up and started the 220 mile trip towards the next hub near Albertville. Along the way Lars lost the ability to shift gears. We pulled over in Realp to figure out what went wrong. The shift assembly from the lever to the transmission slipped off and the bolt to hold it firmly in place was missing. After cannibalizing a bolt from the rear turn signal we were able to get it back on and partially secured. We weren't super confident in its holding power and we needed a 45 degree Torx wrench in order to tighten it down. Fortunately a nice group of German motorcyclists stopped by to help and had the exact tool we needed! Unfortunately we mistakenly installed it 180 degrees off and Lars to to shift MotoGP style for the rest of the trip.
We continued on, making our way over Furka pass.
Stopping for lunch in Mörel
Stopping for a quick photo op in Martigny, looking back over the valley we'd just come from.
We made it to the hotel Le Bellacha in La Léchère in a town named Pussy. Thus began 7 days of juvenile jokes.
Right across the road from the hotel was a church. We'd grow pretty accustomed to the constant bell tolling over the next four nights.
September 13
Lac d'Annecy
We walked out of the hotel that morning to find that Oliver's rear tire was flat. The hotel only had a bicycle pump - which wouldn't have mattered anyway because the leak was coming from one of the spokes. There was no puncture in the tire - so something must have happened to the inner tube. Oliver had to get the bike towed all the way back to Moto Plaisir in Annemasse, spending the whole day dealing with that instead of riding.
While Oliver was spending the day dealing with his bike, me and Lars took off. Instead of doing the Lac d'Annecy route we just explored a bit, stopping at the top of Col de Madeleine for cappuccino. Then down into La Chambre for a drink. Apparently if you ask for a lemonade you get something akin to Sprite. We learned to ask for citronade if we want a lemonade...
We made our way to Col du Glandon.
Then over Col de la Croix on our way to Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne where we had lunch and beers at Brasserie Le Saint Antoine.
We got back to the hotel and sat on the patio, having a beer, when Oliver rolled up in his brand new F800 GS
September 14
South of Lac D'Annecy
The next morning we got up and set out, stopping for an obligatory group photo.
Riding through Albertville we took an impromptu detour to check out Cité Médiévale de Conflans (The Medieval City of Conflans).
Stopping in Beaufort for a quick break.
Then Cormet de Roselend, stopping for cappuccino, overlooking Lac de Roselend.
We then made our way down into Bourg-Saint-Maurice so we could hit up a patisserie. I opted to walk up the street for a Crêpe.
We raced towards Italy and the Little St Bernard Pass. We stopped for some photos and a beer then headed back to the hotel.
September 15
South of Lac D'Annecy
Before heading out to do laundry, me and Oliver had to get some more photos in. The stream flowing near the hotel is named Torrent de Pussy
We made our way to Moûtiers to do some laundry. That was probably the cleanest public toilet I've ever run across.
We headed north through Le Grand-Bornand, stopping for lunch at Grotte & Cascade de Seythnex for lunch. We made it to Col de la Colombiére but soon after had to turn back because the road was closed. We just headed back to the hotel.
September 16
To Briançon
After our last great breakfast at Le Bellacha we packed up and headed for Briançon. Coline made some of the best food we'd had and we'd talk about missing it the rest of the trip.
We made it to Col du Télégraphe for lunch.
Then Col du Galibier and Col du Lautaret.
We got to the Hotel Edelweiss in Briançon, unpacked, then walked down the street. After a beer or two at Bar Le Tonneau we went looking for dinner. After checking out the menus of a few different places we settled on Oxalys.
September 17
Around Guillestre
We headed north-east into Italy and stopped in the ski town Sestriere for cappuccinos.
We continued on, trying to make our way to Susa. It turns out that the road loses its asphalt maybe 10 miles from the town. Oliver went to reconnoiter to see how much gravel we were dealing with. It was too much so we turned back and ended up taking the longer route, back tracking quite a bit.
We rolled into Susa where we had lunch at Ristorante Della Torre. On the way back to Briançon we stopped at Forte di Exilles. There seemed to be some military training going on and it was closed to the public.
September 18
Agnel, Sampeyre, and Lombarde
We headed out after breakfast at the hotel and stopped at Col d'Izoard
Then Col Agnel on the France/Italy border.
Riding down the road a bit we stopped at Bar da Giò in Chianale for a cappuccino. I decided I'd walk in and ask the woman there for a dessert. She promptly blew her nose and then picked up the pastry. I didn't eat it... ☹️
We made our way back to Guillestre for lunch. After walking around for a bit we found this Lebanese restaurant. The owner was super nice and helpful, pointing out the different dishes and what we could order. This ended up being one of the best meals we had on the entire trip.
After lunch we made our way to Col de Vars then turned back to Briançon.
Me and Lars went to check out Cité Vauban, looking for a market and dinner place. A lot of places were closed for the evening. We had a conversation earlier in the day about how much I hate patchouli and that Lars likes it. Thank god that Patchouli place was closed, too.
September 19
Around Guillestre
We made our way south, working towards Gap, stopping off in Châteauroux-les-Alpes for cappuccinos and glace.
Continuing on, taking the back roads which gave us fantastic views of Lac de Serre-Ponçon
After lunch in Gap we made our way back to Briançon. After a missed turn or two we eventually made it back. There were two places near the hotel where I could get a French Taco. After doing some research and first hand experimentation, splitting one with Oliver, I can confidently say these are tacos in name only. It was actually pretty decent and I can see why it's so popular. After we ate we saw that the community theater across the street from the hotel was doing a jazz concert. We walked in and they directed us to the mezzanine to watch the show. We stayed for a half hour or so and then decided to leave.
September 20
To Geneva
We packed up the bikes and made our way north towards Annemasse. We stopped again at Col du Galibier for cappuccino and photos. The first time we crossed this pass the upper section was closed off for road work. This time it was open and we were able to get some pretty nice views.
We stopped in Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne for lunch at an Italian restaurant named La Scuderia. Before that we stopped by a patisserie - but I wasn't gonna wait till after lunch to eat that tart. I regret nothing.
After 11 days and 2900km of riding through the Alps we made it back to Moto Plaisir in Annemasse. We packed up our bags and waited for the taxi to pick us up. Lars was going to downtown Geneva for an extra night. Me and Oliver were headed to the airport hotel since we were leaving early the next morning.
